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| | | Posted by citrusleak I thought it would be great to have a place here where we can ask gear and technique related questions. Mine probably seems simple, but how do you transition for rappelling down a double rope (middle attached at the anchor), to ascending using a handheld ascender? |
| | | | | Posted by citrusleak Mine probably seems simple, but how do you transition for rappelling down a double rope (middle attached at the anchor), to ascending using a handheld ascender? |
| | | | | | | Posted by citrusleak Wow, that rigging isn't too complicated. I only started with the doubled rope because that's how I learned and you don't have to worry about knots that could come undone, etc. |
| Posted by citrusleakAlso, it seems a little safer to have "two" ropes and more friction. |
| Posted by citrusleakAnyway, it will be nice to be able to use the full length of my rope and ascend it as well. Is it acceptable to use only one side of an ATC that has two sides? I assume it is. |
| | Moderator| Posted by citrusleak Wow, that rigging isn't too complicated. I only started with the doubled rope because that's how I learned and you don't have to worry about knots that could come undone, etc. Also, it seems a little safer to have "two" ropes and more friction. Anyway, it will be nice to be able to use the full length of my rope and ascend it as well. Is it acceptable to use only one side of an ATC that has two sides? I assume it is. |
| | | Posted by DJ Craig Although a doubled over rope can be useful as a way of getting the rope back once you get down, but I would really only recommend this on a very short rappel; like AD said, less than 10-15 feet. |
| | Moderator| Posted by uLiveAndYouBurn This depends greatly on your descent device. A rack is best for single rope, a figure 8 or atc works fine for double rope. Why do you consider an ATC unsafe for rappel but safe for belay? |
| | | | Moderator| Posted by citrusleak What I'm trying to learn is not how to ascend doubled rope, but how to descend doubled rope, and then switch to ascending single at the bottom. |
| | | | | Posted by citrusleak How about this: Doubled rope with a figure-8 on a bight in the center of the rope. The bight gets attached to the anchor and then it is rappelled doubled and ascended singled. Is there anything absolutely WRONG with doing this? |
| | | | Moderator | | | | | | | | | Posted by -insertnamehere- There is only one scenario I can think of to where you would want to rappel down on doubled sliding ropes. For example, my climbing buddy and I were headed out for a great afternoon of toproping at the local crag. The parking lot is at the top, and it's a long hike from the bottom of the crag back to the top. We didn't have too much time to climb, so to maximize our time on the rock, I rigged our toprope anchor at the top, put our dynamic rope through our biners at the top, and rappelled down from there with our ATC's. Once at the bottom, we had a fun afternoon of climbing, and when we were done, we just hiked back out and broke down our anchor from the top. Maybe that was all bad decisions in the name of cutting out hiking time, but I figured that if anything went wrong, I could lock off the atc, throw prusiks on either rope, lock those into my harness...And...um... figure out something for some footloops... Er....Well, that's awkward. I'm not exactly sure how I'd actually ascend with a rope sliding about at the top. Maybe awkward footlocking? Quick question...can prusiks be tied around two ropes? |
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