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| | | | Moderator | | | | | Posted by DJ Craig 3. Realize that prusik belays on rappel simply add more complexity to the system, and do nothing to help you in an actual accident. They provide a false sense of security. In real life situations, you are never going to let go of that prusik fast enough when something goes wrong. Instead, you're going to cling to it, and if you ever do finally let go of it, you'll shock-load the system. What is far more likely to happen is that you'll load that prusik by accident while rappelling, and then have to do a change-over to ascent, and back to rappel again. The added complexity is more likely to cause an accident than the prusik is to prevent one. |
| | This member has been banned. See the banlist for more information.| Posted by DJ Craig Here's a few of my top safety things that I like to harp on: 1. When you're new, use a rack. A nice, big one. And not a U-rack. Leave other devices out of the picture until you're experienced. And even then, if in doubt, use the rack. |
| 2. Always have a QAS (Quick Attachment Safety) when rappelling. This is any device that you can very quickly and easily use to anchor yourself into the rope. Typically a loaded ascender that attaches to your harness's belay loop with a short loop of webbing, with the ascender connected to one of your harness's utility loops using a non-locking biner. It should be on the opposite side to your break hand if possible. |
| 3. Realize that prusik belays on rappel simply add more complexity to the system, and do nothing to help you in an actual accident. They provide a false sense of security. In real life situations, you are never going to let go of that prussik fast enough when something goes wrong. Instead, you're going to cling to it, and if you ever do finally let go of it, you'll shock-load the system. What is far more likely to happen is that you'll load that prussik by accident while rappelling, and then have to do a change-over to ascent, and back to rappel again. The added complexity is more likely to cause an accident than the prussik is to prevent one. |
| 4. If you don't have the gear and knowledge to safely switch to rappel, then you shouldn't be ascending. If you don't have the gear and knowledge to safely switch to ascent, then you shouldn't be rappelling. |
| | | | This member has been banned. See the banlist for more information. | | | | Moderator| Posted by Therrin A U-shaped rack is actually stronger than an eyelet-bent rack. I have no idea why you wouldn't want to use a U-shaped rack. They are FAR stronger. |
| | | Posted by DJ Craig The reason I don't like U-racks is because it's too difficult to add and remove bars while rappelling, especially on a heavy rope. Also, every U-rack I've ever seen has been a cheap, crappy micro-rack. Granted, I have limited experience with them. |
The nice thing about the climbing market today, as opposed to yesteryear, is that there are so many different choices available. You can try different devices and find the one that fits your style.| This thread is in a public category, and can't be made private. |