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DJ Craig Moderator
Location: Johnson City, TN Gender: Male Total Likes: 373 likes
Break the Silence
| | | | | Re: PSA's < Reply # 2 on 9/4/2012 4:06 AM > | Reply with Quote
| | | Here's a few of my top safety things that I like to harp on: 1. When you're new, use a rack. A nice, big one. And not a U-rack. Leave other devices out of the picture until you're experienced. And even then, if in doubt, use the rack. 2. Always have a QAS (Quick Attachment Safety) when rappelling. This is any device that you can very quickly and easily use to anchor yourself into the rope. Typically a loaded ascender that attaches to your harness's belay loop with a short loop of webbing, with the ascender connected to one of your harness's utility loops using a non-locking biner. It should be on the opposite side to your break hand if possible. 3. Realize that prusik belays on rappel simply add more complexity to the system, and do nothing to help you in an actual accident. They provide a false sense of security. In real life situations, you are never going to let go of that prusik fast enough when something goes wrong. Instead, you're going to cling to it, and if you ever do finally let go of it, you'll shock-load the system. What is far more likely to happen is that you'll load that prusik by accident while rappelling, and then have to do a change-over to ascent, and back to rappel again. The added complexity is more likely to cause an accident than the prusik is to prevent one. 4. If you don't have the gear and knowledge to safely switch to rappel, then you shouldn't be ascending. If you don't have the gear and knowledge to safely switch to ascent, then you shouldn't be rappelling.
| "You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You're on your own. And you know what you know. And YOU are the one who'll decide where to go..." -Dr. Suess |
| Therrin This member has been banned. See the banlist for more information.
Location: North of Chicago, IL Gender: Male Total Likes: 279 likes
*Therrin puts on the penguin-suit
| | | | Re: PSA's < Reply # 5 on 1/13/2013 12:08 PM > | Reply with Quote
| | | Posted by DJ Craig Here's a few of my top safety things that I like to harp on: 1. When you're new, use a rack. A nice, big one. And not a U-rack. Leave other devices out of the picture until you're experienced. And even then, if in doubt, use the rack. | A U-shaped rack is actually stronger than an eyelet-bent rack. I have no idea why you wouldn't want to use a U-shaped rack. They are FAR stronger. 2. Always have a QAS (Quick Attachment Safety) when rappelling. This is any device that you can very quickly and easily use to anchor yourself into the rope. Typically a loaded ascender that attaches to your harness's belay loop with a short loop of webbing, with the ascender connected to one of your harness's utility loops using a non-locking biner. It should be on the opposite side to your break hand if possible. | Webbing has been found to lock-up in devices. If you are going to use such a device as a fail-safe method, you should use one constructed of a dyanmic-type rope. 3. Realize that prusik belays on rappel simply add more complexity to the system, and do nothing to help you in an actual accident. They provide a false sense of security. In real life situations, you are never going to let go of that prussik fast enough when something goes wrong. Instead, you're going to cling to it, and if you ever do finally let go of it, you'll shock-load the system. What is far more likely to happen is that you'll load that prussik by accident while rappelling, and then have to do a change-over to ascent, and back to rappel again. The added complexity is more likely to cause an accident than the prussik is to prevent one. | This is ABSOLUTELY TRUE!!!! Learn to rappel without using a prussik backup. When you are using someone else's rope (as Robk700 was) you will also cause an amazing amount of heat on the rope, due to friction. That can cause the outer sheath on the rope to glaze over, which can cause the owner of the rope a considerable amount of frustration. Trust me on this. 4. If you don't have the gear and knowledge to safely switch to rappel, then you shouldn't be ascending. If you don't have the gear and knowledge to safely switch to ascent, then you shouldn't be rappelling.
| This is only true when rappelling simple descents where you would have no reason to re-ascend the line. Or where the person at the bottom would not be able to descend you in a "fireman's belay" safely to that ground.
| Give a person a match and they'll be warm for a minute, but light them on fire and they'll be warm for the rest of their life. =) |
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