I dunno how many of you remember (or care), but back in November my son bought a 97 Jeep Wrangler. About 10 days later, he blew the head gasket. Then, while working on replacing it, I found a bent pushrod and shattered spark plug, so I assume that the piston bearing had failed, allowing said piston to contact the plug. An engine swap was called for.

We lucked out a few weeks later. One of the dads from scouts (Bob) is a mechanic, and offered both his shop and his expertise, as well as his contacts in finding an engine. It turns out he wasn't able to find one, but my son found one in Wakarusa, IN, through Jeep Forum. We went and got it on Feb. 16th, putting in the back of my Liberty. We had been cautioned against it, but we had no other choice.

A week later, we put it back in my Jeep and took it to Bob's shop. We pulled the old engine without too much trouble, except that we couldn't get the hoise back very far because of the aftermarket bumper.

Then came putting in the new one. We put a new clutch on, then dropped it in. The trouble was, we couldn't get the engine and trans to mate up. We used a clutch alignment tool to make sure that was lined up, but for some reason we haven't been able to get the engine to slide back onto the shaft.

And so it sits.

Bob put a couple of calls in to mechanic buddies looking for advice, but so far, nothing. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to take the trans out, put the engine in, then mate the trans to the engine, rather than the other way around.

Opinions?

Did you try the clutch disc on the input shaft of the tranny to make sure the splines are actually the same? I had this happen with a BMW once, could NOT get the tranny back in the car, and finally discovered the new clutch was wrong for the car since there were two possible manual transmissions for it (a ZF and a Getrag)- and the parts store didn't have this info.

Posted by bandi Did you try the clutch disc on the input shaft of the tranny to make sure the splines are actually the same? I had this happen with a BMW once, could NOT get the tranny back in the car, and finally discovered the new clutch was wrong for the car since there were two possible manual transmissions for it (a ZF and a Getrag)- and the parts store didn't have this info.

i had a similar problem when i changed the clutch in my old Pinto. No matter how hard i tried, I could not get the damn transmission up the engine. Come to find out that the pilot bearing in the engine had gone cockeyed and would not let the input shaft of the transmission all the way into the flywheel/clutch assembly.

Likewise, the exact same thing happened to me when I ordered a T2/T3 clutch combo for my 87 lebaron. FWD-Performance derped and sent me a later model clutch for 89-94 that used a larger spline and thus couldn't possibly work. Otherwise it bolted up identical.

I'm pretty sure Bob tried the disc on the spline first. We have a clutch alignment tool (basically a plastic simulacrum of a spline) that fits and matches the spline, so if he hadn't tried the disc on the spline, the tool would have alerted us to it not matching.

I have the official manual from Chrysler, and it says to remove the trans to put in a new clutch, so removing the trans I think is going to be the next step, then re-mounting the engine and putting the trans onto the engine, rather than the other way around. If anything, the trans will at least be lighter and easier to manuever.

Posted by splumer I'm pretty sure Bob tried the disc on the spline first. We have a clutch alignment tool (basically a plastic simulacrum of a spline) that fits and matches the spline, so if he hadn't tried the disc on the spline, the tool would have alerted us to it not matching. I have the official manual from Chrysler, and it says to remove the trans to put in a new clutch, so removing the trans I think is going to be the next step, then re-mounting the engine and putting the trans onto the engine, rather than the other way around. If anything, the trans will at least be lighter and easier to manuever.

Sorry, late to the party but this is how I've done it in the past.

Posted by splumer I'm pretty sure Bob tried the disc on the spline first. We have a clutch alignment tool (basically a plastic simulacrum of a spline) that fits and matches the spline, so if he hadn't tried the disc on the spline, the tool would have alerted us to it not matching. I have the official manual from Chrysler, and it says to remove the trans to put in a new clutch, so removing the trans I think is going to be the next step, then re-mounting the engine and putting the trans onto the engine, rather than the other way around. If anything, the trans will at least be lighter and easier to manuever.

check the pilot bearing as well... you'll thank me later.

Posted by Samurai check the pilot bearing as well... you'll thank me later.

Screw you and your pilot bearing! (Actually, Bob got it in place with just a bit more wiggling )

So it's in, now we just have to make sense of the spaghetti of wires and vacuum hoses. A few of the wiring harnesses are different, since the Jeep is a 97 and the engine is a 98, but so far it hasn't been too difficult. He's gonna look into some stuff and we're going back Thursday for (hopefully) the final session.

I'll put some pics up soon.

Posted by splumer Screw you and your pilot bearing! (Actually, Bob got it in place with just a bit more wiggling ) So it's in, now we just have to make sense of the spaghetti of wires and vacuum hoses. A few of the wiring harnesses are different, since the Jeep is a 97 and the engine is a 98, but so far it hasn't been too difficult. He's gonna look into some stuff and we're going back Thursday for (hopefully) the final session. I'll put some pics up soon.

97 to 99 Jeeps use the same wiring connectors so you should be good. It's 2000 to 2006 where things get goofy.

and... we're done! Finished last night. There were a couple of wires that we weren't really sure about, that might have been for AC, but they don't seem to be a problem. The exhaust wouldn't bolt up exactly, so next payday he's taking it to an exhaust shop to get that fixed. Otherwise everything's cool.

It was funny, as my son was pulling out of the parking lot, it stalled and wouldn't restart, and was half in the street. We pushed it back in and lifted the hood. It smelled of gas, and we soon discovered the fuel line had popped off. That was a quick fix, and after that it ran a bit rough at first, but later perked up and (so far) is running fine.

We also discovered a hole in the side of the block on the old engine. I was thinking of rebuilding it, but now decided just to scrap it, unless someone wants some parts off it.

It would make a pretty good anchor for midsize watercraft.

Posted by budda It would make a pretty good anchor for midsize watercraft.

We scrapped it. Got $48 for it.

Not bad for a motor with a window.

indeed. $48 should buy a few cases of beers for the shop that you used.

So we had it running for a while, but always had trouble starting it. Eventually, the starter died, so we replaced it, but now it won't start. Doesn't turn over, no clicks, nothing. A relay clicks from up top, but the starter doesn't click at all. I checked the voltage at the small wire on the starter when he turned the key: 15V. Should there be constant voltage at the big starter wire?

yes, the large cable goes straight to the battery.

also, piston bearings.

Isn't there an equivalent of the Neutral Safety Switch on the manual tranny?

the only neutral switches i'm aware of on manual transmissions in just for ECU usage (establishing rev limits, etc)

starter interrupt will come from the clutch switch.

Posted by Agent Skelly Isn't there an equivalent of the Neutral Safety Switch on the manual tranny?

There is. Apparently if you start it in 4WD low, you can bypass the switch. Not sure if he tried that yet. I took out the ignition actuator and checked that (apparently it's a common problem with Chryslers) and it looked fine. We were getting voltage at the starter, both in the big wire & starter case (constant) and in the small wire with the key turned to Start. We're running out of ideas. He put the battery on the charger overnight to make sure that's not it, but I had him turn the headlights on and try to start it, and the lights hardly dimmed at all, so I doubt that's it.

He also checked to make sure it isn't seized. It isn't.

I'm stymied.

Posted by splumer There is. Apparently if you start it in 4WD low, you can bypass the switch. Not sure if he tried that yet. I took out the ignition actuator and checked that (apparently it's a common problem with Chryslers) and it looked fine. We were getting voltage at the starter, both in the big wire & starter case (constant) and in the small wire with the key turned to Start. We're running out of ideas. He put the battery on the charger overnight to make sure that's not it, but I had him turn the headlights on and try to start it, and the lights hardly dimmed at all, so I doubt that's it. He also checked to make sure it isn't seized. It isn't. I'm stymied.

Pull the starter off and test it with jumper cables. Could be a bad starter.