|Doing it with a digital video camera would probably require poking around its guts with an o-scope to find a clock signal. Then a little amp to trigger the strobe, etc. |
Except for the fact that there isnt any "shutter" in a digital video cam. You would end up with odd lighting on the tape since the type of compression that DV uses would end up having some pixels lit up properly and others way off. The only time the pixel is updated is when the light info for that pixel actually changes. You couldnt really sync a strobe up with that. Plus there isnt just one particular "clock" signal to catch. The only way to really do it with a digital cam would be to add a "shutter effect" and use the time-code(if its a time code cam) to sync the strobe up, but that would still require a special custom made device that would have software that could read timecode and sync the light.
I really wouldnt reccomend telling anyone to play with strobes. Especially whilke UE'ing. I can only imagine the type of dangerous things that could happen with a fully charged Strobe pack and an accidental dip into the water of a drain. The current out of one of them is not to be messed with.
The best solution for lighting hasnt even been suggested yet.
LED's Hi Intensity. I actually built an exact replacement bulb for my VideoProjector(Infocus LP-350). It had an HID bulb running at around 400v at 2k(i think). Now it runs on 24vdc and about 2amps. The lumen output is better than the original 1100ansi lumens the original light source had.
Experiment with using red,green, and blue LED's(use hi output) and you can create any color of light that you need by varying the level of each color array. I used 120LED, or 40 per color for my bulb. You could probably get away with 90 or maybe even less. I suggest experimenting with them. The life of the bulbs are almost for ever, and the current draw is extrememly light on the power source.
Interesting thread I must say.