http://www.adorama.com/DKTY45.html

Is that decent? Any reason I shouldn't buy it in favor of something else? Anything other than chemistry I will need besides that? I've not done my own 4x5 developing yet so I am feeling like a beginning photo student who is confused by the white plastic reel.

Posted by Servo Any reason I shouldn't buy it in favor of something else?

Because developing 4x5s on your own sucks

If you want to try it here first before buying chemicals, you're welcome to. We have tanks although I think most people do tray developing.

Sara

P.S. Sent you a message on MySpace a few days ago. School has officially kicked my ass and then some.

Myspace hates me (and I hate Myspace) so it never told me you sent it. Blah.

I may do that, when would you have time to let me come fart around the lab? Also, I want to try out Diafine, do they have any? The promise of an extra stop of speed (or two) and no temp control or development time control needed sounds kinda nice.

I have one very similar to that. It's a pain in the ass. Mine leaks out fluids for some reason so I figure I'll tape it if I decide to use it at all seriously. Loading it is not that difficult, at least, but it also bothers me that it takes so long to pour out the fluid between each step of development. Some parts of the film are getting about 20 seconds more development than other parts - which is not inconsequential when dealing with development times as short as 6-7 minutes.

Not sure when we could work out a time. Like I said in my email, I'll be gone for a week starting Thursday and the mornings I work, the lab is closed due to classes. I've also never developed (went to SS from the beginning), but Bob said he'd be willing to help but it's been a long time since he's done it. We only have D76 though. You could learn color too since we have the machine, but no one uses it since it's easier to take them to SS. Plus the chemicals are nasty.

Sara

Sara: Yeah, I had planned to just do B&W, and use Diafine at that because then it's stupidly easy. But we'll talk more and try to work somethin out.

Dan: What would you recommend instead? I'd like to be able to do it at home, but I can't do tray processing as I don't have any room that can be made dark enough. Keep in mind, I am also cheap. Heh.

I would recommend taking them to a lab instead.

It's pretty much one of those or tray processing.

But the tank is pretty cheap. You could always get it and give it a try.

Yeah, I was trying to get my costs down some; $2.25 a frame at the lab kinda hurts after a while. I may try that thingy anyway. Thanks.

those F***ing plastic reels! i learned to roll on steel ones w/ the hooks, not those pussy auto-reels.

Uh, ok.

obviously, you also need some sort of device to block out light while loading the film, like a changing bag.

I wholly support diafine, and as you personally saw...it is stupidly easy, and works with ghetto-ass developing techniques. I read today that warmer diafine will result in thicker negs though.

You should send me yours because I already got my sweaty sweat all in it anyway.

Grainier too, or just thicker?

Update: did my own processing of Fortepan 400 in Diafine. Seems to work well actually rating it at 400 (vs. with traditional developers, where I had rated it 200 but developed at 400 to get an extra stop of exposure). Loading the tank was kind a pain, and for pouring out it did spill a lot (I need a funnel).

In other news, does anyone know anything about getting developer/fixer stains off a stainless steel countertop? Cause... oops.

Posted by Servo In other news, does anyone know anything about getting developer/fixer stains off a stainless steel countertop? Cause... oops.

http://housekeepin...brownstainless.htm

My best bet.

I'll try that, though I find it funny that it suggest using vinegar when vinegar is what caused it to begin with (acetic acid in the fixer, I think).

Posted by Servo I'll try that, though I find it funny that it suggest using vinegar when vinegar is what caused it to begin with (acetic acid in the fixer, I think).

hmm... didn't think about that. You can find stainless steel cleaners and pads to clean it with at Lowes or Home Depot. I remember having to get some a while back.

Just an update... I have come to the conclusion that it's worth it to pay the pro lab $2 a shot to develop. I can't seem to ever get even development with this method.

Correct!

developing 4x5 is best done in when you have a tank for each step (chemical) and everything should be done in the dark , the film should be loaded on the neg carriers for developing them , then in the dark open only the tank you need to use seeing that the tanks are filled with the appropriate chemicals for each step and are in order, then when ur done with the first tank , close the lid and open the second so you don't get mixed up . the second shol dbe the stop bath for 30 sec. then its the fixer , after about 2 minutes of fixing , its safe to turn on the light , the film will not be affected . Ask for agitation techniques, for the first 30 seconds in the developer , put the neg carrier all the way then take it out and tilt it to one side so the chemical get drained from that side, then put it back in , then take it out and now let drain/drip on the other side , so , left side , right side , left side , right side , until the 30 seconds are done . then at each 30 seconds , ttake it out and drip it to a different side, so its , take it out , drip from the left side , put it back in , wait 30 secs , then take it out and drip from the right side . its the same techniques for the rest of the chemicals , and the wash , you just leave it there for a while, dont forget to use hypoclear or something equivalent to get rid of the fixer completely . the drip from the right, then drip from the left technique guarantees even developement for the whole sheet of film . and also , always shoot an extra picture at the same correct exposure to use it as a test for the chemicals , and always bracket your exposures if your able to , shoot the normal exposure (N) then overexposed by one stop (N+1) then the underexposed one (N-1) just in case ur meter wasnt correct or something went wrong , your correct exposure would be one of those ...