2000 Dodge Stratus

Fuel: Hess or Kwik Fill 87 octane... cheap but has never failed me.

Oil: Usually Mobil or Valvoline dinosaur 10W-40 (whichever is cheaper)

Oil Filter: Usually Delco.

Air Filter: Purolator PureOne

Fuel Filter: The stupid fucking OEM one that is built into the fucking fuel neck/tank assembly that is REALLY FUCKING HARD AND EXPENSIVE TO REPLACE IF YOU EVER NEED TO.

Tires: Goodyear Weather Handler P205/65R15 (IIRC that's the size? I def have 15's instead of 14's... not an option, bone stock on my car).

Ignition Wires: Stock. Will replace with OEM or Xact in the near future.

Spark Plugs: Bosch Platinum+2 last March.

Coolant: Prestone Green.

Trans: Mopar ATF+4. (stupid fucking pan has a design flaw and has a slow leak on every 95-01 Stratus... just a couple drops every week or so, but enough to have to replace on a fairly regular basis).

Power steering: No clue. I think generic Advance Auto for my car.




EDIT: I can't recommend the Goodyear Weather Handler tires highly enough for people who drive in bad weather (heavy rain or heavy snow). They're quiet in the summer, and have pretty great traction even in some extreme precipitation. Good mileage warranty, easy balance, well-constructed. Usually $100/ea but can be found on sale for 75/ea pretty frequently.

2000 Jeep Wrangler
Fuel: Cheapest Possible
Oil: Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30
Filter: Pennzoil
Tires: BF Goodrich Mud & Snow
Air Filter: Pennzoil
Fuel Filter: Pennzoil
Plugs: Chrysler Original
Salt & Rust: from ontario winters

Posted by SoNaive 2000 Jeep Wrangler Fuel: Cheapest Possible Oil: Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 Filter: Pennzoil Tires: BF Goodrich Mud & Snow Air Filter: Pennzoil Fuel Filter: Pennzoil Plugs: Chrysler Original Salt & Rust: from ontario winters

i've kept silent, but i can no more... please anything but PENNZOIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i know the guy that works there, and it's literally 20 feet from my home.

at 300,000 KM, and driving a car that has more rust than paint, you look for the cheapest option.

Posted by SoNaive i know the guy that works there, and it's literally 20 feet from my home. at 300,000 KM, and driving a car that has more rust than paint, you look for the cheapest option.

Fair enough...

why bother doing a service at all on a car that whipped if youre concerned about cost?

Posted by Samurai i've kept silent, but i can no more... please anything but PENNZOIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've only killed two engines in my life (out of the 100+ cars I've owned) and they both had Pennzoil in them at the time.

Posted by steponmebbbboom why bother doing a service at all on a car that whipped if youre concerned about cost?

Tow calls aren't cheap either?

Posted by bandi Tow calls aren't cheap either?

so scrap it? its got 300K and more rust than paint, theres some big picture issues with that car that oil and filters arent going to touch?
?
?

Posted by steponmebbbboom so scrap it? its got 300K and more rust than paint, theres some big picture issues with that car that oil and filters arent going to touch? ? ?

i have had cars that were more rust than metal, but mechanically sound. feed and water your engine and it stays happy!

yep, keep the levels topped up, wholeheartedly agree...

unlike my boss, keeps his cars clean and shiny.... his venture just tossed its second engine in 3 years. Overheating yet blowing cold air. Turns out he had a small prestone leak and never fixed it, then one day over heated, topped up with prestone and now has a crankcase full of secret sauce. Make things worse, its cheaper to swap the engine in this truck than fix it!

Posted by steponmebbbboom so scrap it? its got 300K and more rust than paint, theres some big picture issues with that car that oil and filters arent going to touch? ? ?

It probably beats walking.

After being quoted a trade in value of $300, i decided to save up my money, and drive it till it dies.

Posted by bandi It probably beats walking.

if you think sticking to regular oil change intervals on a car that's falling apart is going to make any difference, be my guest... if it's a beater it's a beater, keep the levels topped up and run it into the ground, the notion that youre going to be any more likely to get stuck on the side of the road because you spent $3 less on oil filters is silly when it has that kind of mileage on it. you might as well put super unleaded in a rental car.

if i drove a car with over 300K on the clock my oil change money would be going in the piggybank for the CAA membership, blown rad hoses and thrown belts, tire blowouts, any of the other silliness hi-mileage cars throw at you that oil and filters wont save you from, youre not going to lunch the already whipped engine in 20K just because you stopped changing the oil on it. if the damn thing needs a brake overhaul, new tires, new exhaust, e-test coming up that itll never pass, any of which will exceed the vehicle's value, why piss away $30 in oil and filters for it? are you kidding me?

Posted by steponmebbbboom if you think sticking to regular oil change intervals on a car that's falling apart is going to make any difference, be my guest... if it's a beater it's a beater, keep the levels topped up and run it into the ground, the notion that youre going to be any more likely to get stuck on the side of the road because you spent $3 less on oil filters is silly when it has that kind of mileage on it. you might as well put super unleaded in a rental car. if i drove a car with over 300K on the clock my oil change money would be going in the piggybank for the CAA membership, blown rad hoses and thrown belts, tire blowouts, any of the other silliness hi-mileage cars throw at you that oil and filters wont save you from, youre not going to lunch the already whipped engine in 20K just because you stopped changing the oil on it. if the damn thing needs a brake overhaul, new tires, new exhaust, e-test coming up that itll never pass, any of which will exceed the vehicle's value, why piss away $30 in oil and filters for it? are you kidding me?

i will have to contradict you, i have 300 000 kms on my grand prix, its a 97, never driven in the winter runs like the day it rolled off the assembly line. It hase the 3.8, and i baby it

my sunfire ran great up till the end, it had 300 000kms give or take. a car you get what you give, my sunfire had a solid body with no rust, it still runs, just its not cost effective to change a water pump in a 2.4 this late in life

Posted by SoNaiveat 300,000 KM, and driving a car that has more rust than paint, you look for the cheapest option.

this does not sound like a car that has been babied nostra, oil and filters arent going to make it run any better...

Actually, I get the impression oil probably DOES make it run better.

It's made it run for the past 100,000 kms of more rust than paint!
And it passed the e-test 3 months ago.

Posted by steponmebbbboom Stop buying fram! http://minimopar.k...eference.html#fram this has been all over the internet for at least eight years.

Also K&N. Especially their air filters... sure they are washable but theyre expensive, give zero performance gain, and usually let in more shit.